Tuesday , 18 June 2024

Sotheby’s and Bucherer launch innovative Partnership

Creating new experience at the intersection of auction and retail. International auction house and leading watch & jewellery retailer collaborate on a series of initiatives, starting with


Featuring highlights from Sotheby’s Jewellery, Watch, Sneakers and Handbags auctions this Spring (24 April – 11 May 2021)


To be offered in Sotheby’s Geneva May auction

Today, Sotheby’s and Bucherer are launching an innovative partnership at the intersection of auction and retail. The international auction house and leading watch and jewellery retailer will collaborate on a series of initiatives, starting with an exclusive exhibition at Bucherer’s flagship boutique in Geneva and the sale of pre-owned watches certified by the retailer in Sotheby’s “Important Watches” auction on 11 May.

Set across five-floors of retail space, the exhibition, to take place from 24 April to 11 May, offers collectors an opportunity to preview extraordinary highlights from Sotheby’s spring luxury sales series in Geneva and New York. From dazzling jewels and sought-after timepieces, to designer handbags and exclusive sneakers, the exhibition is dedicated to the fastest-growing luxury categories on the auction market. Highlights include gemstones originating from the mines of Kashmir and Colombia, a Rolex Submariner worn by Nick Nolte in the 1970s film The Deep, and a pair of “Air Jordan 1” sneakers worn by Michael Jordan during his rookie season with the Chicago Bulls in 1985.

As global demand for pre-owned watches reaches unprecedented levels, trust, expertise and authenticity – three values at the core of Sotheby’s and Bucherer’s philosophy – have become ever more important. This new partnership offers a first-time opportunity for collectors to buy Bucherer-certified pre-owned watches at auction. Made by iconic brands (Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Longines, Patek Philippe and Rolex), the eight timepieces featuring in Sotheby’s Geneva’s forthcoming auction have all been authenticated, inspected and certified by Bucherer’s in-house watch experts and come with a two-year guarantee.

Josh Pullan, Sotheby’s Head of Global Luxury Division, said: “Together our companies have over 400 years’ history and expertise, with a common ability to reinvent ourselves to evolve with the ever-changing luxury landscape and clients’ aspirations. This partnership builds on our shared appreciation of quality, tradition and innovation, and introduces an important shift to the watch auction market, where certification and authentication play an ever[1]greater role.”

Patrick Graf, Chief Commercial Officer at Bucherer, stated: “Creating a fresh approach to luxury and embracing unique and unexpected concepts – that is how Bucherer, one of the world’s leading retailers in luxury watches and jewellery, is setting the pace. In this light, joining forces with international auction house, Sotheby’s – was a natural fit to celebrate the companies’ shared values, strong passion and outstanding expertise in the curation of a luxury lifestyle collection.”


Important Watches, live auction on 11 May at 1pm


“The Deep” Submariner

Ref. 1680 in stainless steel, circa 1975

Worn by Nick Nolte as he co-starred with Jacqueline Bisset in the 1977 movie “The Deep”

Est. CHF 15,000-30,000

Certified Pre-Owned watches by Bucherer


Lindbergh Hour Angle Navigator’s watch, Ref. 4365, circa 1944

Oversized stainless steel pilot’s wristwatch with enamel dial and silver bezel

Est. CHF 30,000 – 50,000

One of the most iconic watches produced by Longines, the Lindbergh Hour Angle was designed by aviator hero Charles Lindbergh and distributed in the 1930s and 1940s.

Recognisable by its oversized 47mm steel case, it was originally created for aerial navigation and features the Hour Angle, developed by Lindbergh himself after he flew across the Atlantic.

Property of the original Swiss owner


‘Brass Movement’ Octa Calendrier

Platinum annual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, 5-day power reserve and brass movement, circa 2003

Est. CHF 100,000 – 150,000

Auction prices for F.P. Journe watches have risen rapidly in recent years, especially for early watches produced during the independent watchmaker’s “brass period” (1999-2004), i.e. when movements were made in brass rather than gold.


Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels – live auction on 11 May at 4pm

Pair of Colombian emerald and diamond pendent ear clips. Of reverse design, the first one set with a 1.93-carat step-cut emerald supporting a 8.04-carat pear-shaped diamond, the other set with a 3.01-carat step-cut diamond, supporting a 6.44-carat pear-shaped emerald.

Est. CHF 310,000 – 400,000

Diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1920s

Est. CHF 76,000 – 110,000


Gamers Only Online sale, open for bidding 1-12 May

The market for collectors sneakers is at an all-time-high and for its first sale dedicated to the category, Sotheby’s Geneva will present “Gamers Only” – an online auction of game-worn sneakers from some of the best basketball players in the NBA’s history, from Michael Jordan and Kareem Abdul Jabbar to Stephen Curry.

The selection is led by a pair of Air Jordan 1, worn in-game by Michael Jordan in his rookie season (1984-85). This is the same model as the pairsigned by Michael Jordan and sold for a record-breaking $560,000 at Sotheby’s in May 2020 (est. CHF 100,000 – 150,0000).

The introduction of the Air Jordan 1 was one of the most pivotal moments in the advent of sneaker culture and these sneakers are among the most coveted by collectors around the world.


Sotheby’s Handbags and Accessories Online sale, open for bidding 1-12 May


Rose Exotique Kelly Sellier

25cm in Ostrich Leather with Gold Hardware, 2020

Est. CHF 24,000-28,000

A collector’s dream: the Kelly Sellier in the ultra-rare size 25 and color Rose, Exotique features Hermès’ finest ostrich leather and gold hardware.


Menthe Birkin bag

30 cm in Chèvre Mysore Leather with Palladium Hardware, 2013

Est. CHF 12,000-16,000

A custom-made bag, with a possibly unique combination of leathers, colors and hardware: goatskin leather, “Menthe” green exterior, “Hermès Orange” interior and brushed (matte) palladium hardware



1, Quai du Mont-Blanc, 1201 Geneva

24 April – 11 May, Monday – Saturday, 10am-6pm

Mandarin Oriental, Geneva

Quai Turrettini 1, 1201 Genève

7-11 May, 10am-6pm (by appointment only)



11 May (streamed live on sothebys.com)

Sotheby’s Geneva, Rue François-Diday 2, 1204

• Important Watches (1pm CET)

• Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels (4pm CET)


• Important Watches Part II (29 April -12 May)

• Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Part II (29 April – 13 May)

• Handbags and Accessories (1-12 May)

• Sneakers ‘Gamer only’ (1-12 May)


About Karl Heinz Nuber

Nuber ist langjähriger unabhängiger Uhren Journalist und begann seine Karriere in den frühen 80er Jahren. Durch das Sammeln kam er zum Schreiben. Er ist Gründer des vierteljährlich regelmässig bilingual – Deutsch und English - erscheinenden TOURBILLON Magazin’s, der digitalen TOURBILLON Plattform TICK-Talk, der Ausstellungs- und Event Plattform Art of TOURBILLON und TOURBILLON TV. Er tritt regelmässig als Kenner der Branche in Erscheinung.

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