Thursday , 6 October 2022
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Panerai Luminor “Skull” ref. LN065C by Label Noir

Reinterpreting a great classic, the Panerai Luminor, and evoking a visual emotion. Label Noir, the Geneva-based specialist in customisation, once again enchants us with a symbolically charged, subtle and surprising creation in an exclusive 10-piece edition.

Eccentric pop rock accessories, punk trends, Mexican reverence for the Día de los Muertos, a non-conformist emblem displayed by bikers from the 1950s onwards, the skull and crossbones have crossed the ages and been adapted to different cultures. Fashion, and then ready-to-wear clothing, seized upon this symbol. The mark of distinction has now become a decorative motif. Naturally, the watchmaking and luxury industries are restoring its original symbolism.

Forget the impression of déjà vu! For Label Noir, the process is constantly renewed with mastery during the presentation of each redesigned emblematic timepiece, and this has been the case since 2011. High standards impose their own rules. The Geneva customisation workshop masters them in order to better manipulate them. The use of outstanding craftsmanship widens the field of possibilities. Thus, the most rebellious of ornaments now takes on a whole new dimension on the refined dial of a Panerai Luminor watch, reference PAM 562.

Life hangs by a thread. The Fates of Roman mythology remind us of this. Forging ties is conducive to becoming anchored in one’s time. With a view towards strengthening them, Label Noir thwarts the challenges. For its latest creation, the customisation goldsmith decided to use a unique artistic process called String Art. The story goes that in the 19th century, the British mathematician Mary Boyle invented an original teaching aid for studying curves. The principle? Nails on which wires are stretched to form straight, rounded lines. In the 1970s, at the height of the psychedelic period, the artist John Eichinger appropriated this skill to create colourful, graphical mandalas. Today, the art of the stretched wire contributes to the creation of an incomparable ornament on the black dial of a Luminor watch.

Eighty-one brass nails in BlackGold, a grey-black colour obtained using a slightly acidic bath, are positioned with great precision, forming the framework of the piece. Following a rigorous path, the dexterity of a skilled hand wraps around them a copper wire only 0.15mm thick and approximately one metre long. Patience is essential. Two days of indispensable braiding are needed to finalise the skull. The contrast of the colours makes it stand out perfectly.

This masterful composition is protected by the 44mm diameter titanium case of the Panerai Luminor PAM 562. In order to accentuate the striking visual effect, a Titalyt treatment gives it a contemporary and elegant matt grey shade. In addition to its aesthetic appeal, the oxidation process reinforces the metal’s hardness and resistance to wear and corrosion in accordance with the AMS 2488D material standard used in the automobile racing and aerospace sectors.Within the iconic case with its crown-protector bridge, the P.5000 calibre supplies the essential energy to the pair of hour and minute hands. This hand-wound movement boasts a generous eight-day power reserve. For a comfortable feel, this limited edition of only ten timepieces comes with a black rubber strap.

With the Panerai Luminor “Skull” watch ref. LN065C by Label Noir, as delicate as it is robust, the skull becomes an allegory of time. More than ever, the aesthetic representation of the skull celebrates life!

As with all the creations made by the workshop, the exclusive Panerai Luminor “Skull” ref. LN065C by Label Noir, produced in an edition of only 10 timepieces and priced at CHF 22,500, is available at www.labelnoirdesign.com.

SUMMARY_Following collaborations with watch brands renowned for their singular aesthetic creations, Maurice Lacroix and Anonimo, as well as the encounter with Epée 1839, Label Noir is offering a new original limited series of ten examples based on an emblematic watch, the Luminor by Panerai. This work presents for the first time a skull crafted using the String Art technique. Like a complex weave, a 0.15mm diameter copper wire is wound around a nail to form a luminous skull on the black dial. This work of art is housed in the 44mm diameter titanium casing. A Titalyt treatment gives it a contemporary and elegant matt grey colour, reinforcing the metal’s hardness and its resistance to wear and corrosion.

About Karl Heinz Nuber

Nuber ist langjähriger unabhängiger Uhren Journalist und begann seine Karriere in den frühen 80er Jahren. Durch das Sammeln kam er zum Schreiben. Er ist Gründer des vierteljährlich regelmässig bilingual – Deutsch und English - erscheinenden TOURBILLON Magazin’s, dem TOURBILLON Blog TICK-Talk, der Ausstellungs- und Event Plattform Art of TOURBILLON und TOURBILLON TV. Er tritt regelmässig als Kenner der Branche in Erscheinung.

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