Monday , 24 March 2025
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Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour (left), who also represents the Chairman of the W&W Foundation and is therefore the most powerful man in the Swiss watch industry.

Watches & Wonders becomes a monopoly of the Geneva market

The mistakes of ‘arrogance and greed’ that led to the ‘OUT’ of Baselworld are now being committed by W&W itself, despite the fact that these mistakes have been criticised several times in the past by the President of the Watches & Wonders Foundation Jean-Fred Dufour Watches and Wonders and Rolex CEO.

Watches & Wonders buys all hotel allotments in Geneva (for all hotel exhibition rooms and for the guest rooms) during the luxury watch fair from 1 to 7 April 2025, so that the ‘hotel exhibition proliferation’ is controlled by W&W itself. W&W therefore determines which watch brands are allowed to exhibit in Geneva’s luxury hotels. This concentration of power distorts competition. The FHH, which is responsible for organising Watches & Wonders, has been concerned about the proliferation of hotel exhibitions during W&W for decades.

The exhibition and room contingents purchased are of course sold to potential watch brands at a considerable price premium. However, the watch brands are not entitled to the same space as last year.

Also new this year is the TIME TO WATCHES event platform, which is moving to the Villa Sarasin – behind Palexpo – just a minute’s walk from the W&W. It is possible and sensible for W&W to take over Time to Watches in the future.

Over time, the exhibitors’ PR activities have also been concentrated in the 289 Consulting Team. The members of this ‘PR factory’ are all former PR managers of the watch brands (e.g. Marine, ex-Hublot; Aude, Cloé, Estelle, Eva, Mousse, Inès). This closes the circle and the strategic concentration of power between PR and exhibitor activities.

Here is a brief overview of the 289 Consulting mandates:

WATCHES & WONDERS

Angelus, A Swiss house founded in 1891, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, that reinvents its classic models, entirely in-house with its integrated manufacture.
Arnold & Son, Swiss watchmaking with English roots, same group as Angelus, with its integrated manufacture.
Bremont, the spirit of British adventurous and explorers driving the mission to create the most capable tool watches.
Gerald Charles, an independent family-own watch company based in Switzerland. Founder and former designer, Mr Gerald Charles Genta gave his names to his last brand.
Raymond Weilembodies a true Swiss family legacy and independent spirit, offering modern and accessible refined Swiss watchmaking that transcends trends. As it approaches its 50th anniversary in 2026, the brand continues to celebrate timeless elegance

TIME TO WATCHES
Benrus, the revival of an Amercan brand with an amazing legacy.
Brevathe Italian soul from Lake Como in Swiss watchmaking. Each piece reimagines historical measuring tools.
Formex, an independent family-owned watch manufacturer based in Biel/Bienne (CH), with the new generation at the helm of the brand.
Guebly, a watch brand made by a collector for collectors.
Krayon, will present a new caliber, the First Mechanical Planner watch with 378 components.
Taos, a unique proposition in watchmaking: less than 10 watches per year. Only one-of-a-kind – unique – watches, each dial is a Work of Art.

BEAU RIVAGE HOTEL, GENEVA
AmidaThe Renaissance of a ’70s Icon. The legendary Digitrend driver’s watch, a Swiss ‘digital’ timepiece emblematic of the Space Age, returns with a mechanical movement, a jump-hour module, and a sapphire prism for lateral time display.
Beda’a, a young and super talented watch designer based in Qatar, designing affordable watches Swiss made.
Bianchet, only Tourbillon watches, founded on the modern reinterpretation of the Golden Ratio – 1.618 – in the world of fine watchmaking.
Depancela French watchmaker that takes direct inspiration from the automotive world, crafting high-quality timepieces at accessible prices.
Doxa, a family-own brand based in Biel/Bienne (CH), known for their famous Dive watches : the SUB collection.
Favre Leuba, a centuries-old watch brand, led by industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann.
Louis Erard, an Art gallery in watchmaking that provides a platform for collaborations between artists and watches.
Vanguartan independent Swiss watchmaker renowned for its futuristic designs and mechanical innovations, such as the Orb, a watch with manual and automatic modes.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
Jacob & Co, combining the daring and entrepreneurial spirit  for stunning high watchmaking and high jewelry creations. 

EASTWEST HOTEL
Maurice Lacroix, celebrating its 50th Anniversary. 

The regional press and brand representatives have also been given more power. They propose media representatives to be invited to the W&W. If the proposed media representatives do not get a majority, they are disinvited.

According to insiders, it can also happen that if you make negative comments in the media, your access badge is blocked and you can no longer visit the W&W.

Such methods did not exist at the SIHH (later renamed W&W). At that time, values such as trust and honesty still applied. Today, everyone hides behind email.

About Karl Heinz Nuber

Nuber ist langjähriger Uhren Journalist und begann seine Karriere in den frühen 80er Jahren. Er ist Gründer des vierteljährlich regelmässig bilingual – Deutsch und English - erscheinenden TOURBILLON Magazin’s, der digitalen TOURBILLON Plattform TICK-Talk, der Ausstellungs- und Event Plattform Art of TOURBILLON und TOURBILLON TV. Er tritt regelmässig als Kenner der Branche in Erscheinung.

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